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i asked whatsthegood word once and this was the responce: Here is what I know. First off, the software can only see what the sensors see. For example, it's common for the dashboard water temp sensor to not work but the ecu never sees this signal. The other sensor on the front water pipe is for the ecu and is what is displayed when you use datascan. Also, I am assuming that you have the stock o2 sensors in place. These are narrowband sensors and cannot read AF like on a dyno. They are still usefull though because it lets you know if they are working properly. Also, the timing is seen from the CAS because this is whre the ecu sees timing. For example, if you were to rotate the CAS, the timing as seen by the pulley timing marks will change but the timing as seen by the engine will not change because you are manipulating the sensor.
Here are some more info: also watch out for selecting a null gauge. If you set a null value, instead of displaying "0", it will freeze the display. For example, selecting R hand o2 sensor on a car that has only a L hand o2 sensor or selecting a egr temp on a car that has no input for this.
As for the values:
O2 is read as percentage of full scale. 50% being what the ECU is aiming for as ideal mixture. The O2 sensors should be sensitive and fast moving, so when you hold the car at a steady 2000rpm (for example) the O2 sensors should oscillate back and forth between about 20% and 80% every second. The O2 sensors do this only when they are warm, if they are slow to react then either they have some gunk in them and need to be cleaned or replaced. The injector reading is in Milliseconds, and Duty cycle in percent of total time that the injector spends open. If your injectors go past 92% then its time for bigger injectors or to increase your fuel pressure. Make sure you get a custom tune or properly adjusted chip if you do this.
tps: around 0.5->4.5v, closed->open
aac/iacv: less than 50 at idle?
inj pulsewidth: dependant on load
afm: dependant on load, but ~1v idle, and < 5v at max load (if its hitting 5, time to upgrade - typically only issue for turbo cars)
battery voltage: 12v-14v (14 when running)
timing: varies, but generally should be BTDC (not negative BTDC or position ATDC depending on how its shown).
o2: should vary a few times per second from close to 0v to close to 1v. (eg 0.1 up to 0.9v and back). if its 0v constant its probably not plugged in/wire cut. if its 0.3v or there abouts constant, its dead and time to replace
Z is currently under renovation. pardon her appearance:
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